Chapter 11 Steamy Singapore
From Nongsa Point to Raffles Marina (see chart)
For 12 weeks we had been traveling through Indonesia without seeing a single marina. It seemed somewhat ironic therefore that we should spend our last 2 days in this, one of the world's poorest developing countries, at Nongsa Point Marina just across the Straits from Singapore. Some of Singapore's wealth had obviously rubbed off on its near neighbour, for the marina was part of an up-market holiday resort complex. But the punters were few and much of it was in need of some TLC. The swimming pool however was a very elaborate affair, well maintained and we enjoyed it to the full.
We cleared from Indonesia with only a handful of coins in our pockets and headed out towards the Straits under engine with barely a ripple breaking the surface of the sea. The heat was already building. In order to give ourselves good all-round vision, we had taken down the sprayhood and various bits of canvas we use to shield us from the sun so we were already reaching for the hats and sun protection cream as we cleared the marina. Singapore was only just discernible through the smog although it was only 7 miles away. There was plenty to see around us however: bulk carriers, container ships, car carriers, tugs and tows, Indonesian patrol boats and, amazingly, small traditional open fishing boats bobbing about between the giants. Radar was almost useless as the screen was literally clogged with targets. We ran parallel to the west bound shipping lane for about an hour, gauging the speed of the vessels and the interval between them. When we arrived at the official 'crossing point' we picked our moment and crossed astern of a fast-going car carrier and reached the comparative safety of the separation zone unscathed. The only way we could tell we had reached this zone was by the local fishing craft who took advantage of the break in the traffic but it seemed to us that they came perilously close to being run down by the behemoths as they steamed relentlessly by.
Now for the east bound lane. We waited until the coast was clear and managed to cross before the next shadowy monster appeared out of the gloom. Phhew! We'd just crossed the busiest shipping lanes in the world unscathed.
Raffles Marina, where we were headed, is on the north-west tip of Singapore near the bridge that joins Singapore with Malaysia so we still had a fair way to go. Our route took us up the Johore Strait through the largest ship park we've seen anywhere on our travels. Fortunately most of them were at anchor but we had to keep a wary look-out for any that might be on the move and also for tugs and tows. A huge land reclamation scheme is under way on the western shores of Singapore. Since the island is only about the size of the Isle of Wight they are desperate for more land!
Relief at having safely crossed the shipping lanes was quickly dispelled when Aliesha, still under engine, came to a shuddering halt. We both dashed for the gear lever and managed to put it into neutral before any damage was done to the prop shaft. We had obviously picked up something big on the propellor which the rope-cutter couldn't deal with. There was nothing for it but for Dick to go over the side with mask and snorkel to survey the damage. So there we were, dead in the water, surrounded by shipping and not knowing if we could disentangle ourselves. Armed with the bread knife, Dick managed to hack away at a great mass of floating line which in turn had ensnared all sorts of debris including what looked like part of a dead sheep. It seemed like Dick was in the water for an awfully long time but in reality it was less than 20 minutes. We restarted the engine and the propellor seemed to be running smoothly enough. Even so, we still had to have the boat hauled out in Raffles Marina just to put our minds at rest that we hadn't got a bent shaft.
Raffles Marina
For all its grand connotations, the marina is situated on the edge of a large industrial estate overlooking the Straits of Johore across to Malaysia. As always, the glossy brochure depicts the place in a rather different light to that of reality but, for all that, it is an extremely well-run marina offering many services and activities including 10-pin bowling, swimming pool, cinema, choice of restaurants, gym, squash and tennis and even wall-climbing ! Maybe they see it as good practice for climbing the mast! The staff were all extremely pleasant and obliging and would run as from the boat up to the marina complex in a golf cart, saving us a long sweaty hike from the end of the dock where we were berthed.
Our first job was to give Aliesha a good hose down with fresh water. We had not seen a drop of rain since going across the top end of Australia and a thin layer of grime lay over everything. In Macassar we had been showered with the effluent from ships' stacks, and had even had an acid burn make a small hole in our bimini. Then for the last two weeks we had been in continuous smog from the forest fires of Kalimantan and Sumatra. Our red ensign had taken on a sort of chocolate sludge hue and was so thick with grime that it was almost stiff! All the canvas work, ropes, fittings, hull and deck and cockpit cushions had to be washed. What hope for our lungs we thought!
Singapore City
The marina is a long way from the city centre, but a regular courtesy bus service plied between there and the nearest MRT (Mass Rapid Transport) station at Boon Lay which conveyed us to anywhere we wanted to go on the island. Boon Lay being at the end of the line, we were always assured of a seat for the 30-minute journey into Orchard Road, the central shopping district. The trains were spotlessly clean, no litter or graffiti; no loutish behaviour; no eating or drinking allowed in the carriages or stations. It really was a pleasure to travel! Everybody was smartly turned out and Pam even got offered a seat on a couple of occasions! Although we saw plenty of westerners in the city, we seemed to be a fairly rare breed in the suburbs.
Before the train plunged underground we could see blocks of flats stretching for as far as the eye could see, all more or less identical. But there was plenty of open space in amongst these concrete blocks in the form of ornamental parks, grassy areas and sports fields. We learnt that many of the apartments only have a single room and no kitchen as most people buy their food from many of the hawker stalls that line the city streets at night.
After 12 weeks in Indonesia, it was something of a culture shock to find ourselves in busy streets with nose-to-tail traffic, huge shopping malls and Starbucks coffee shops once more. The contrast couldn't have been more marked and it all seemed rather obscene to go from a country with so little to a country with so much. Sandwiched as they are between Australia and Singapore, it's no wonder that so many Indonesians are trying to cross the borders. However we managed to overcome our prejudices and it wasn't long before we were seeking out the best places to buy electronics and other items on our shopping list. Chief among these was a new camera for Dick and an iPod for Pam. Despite the former, we took very few pictures other than of people at the various gatherings we attended, and so this Chapter has few illustrations!
But first, a tour of the city taking in Little India,
China Town, the
administrative district and the commercial areas. Our overall view was of
a very modern, bustling city, still expanding wherever land becomes available.
And yet the general effect was pleasing to the eye, largely due to the masses of trees and
flowering shrubs and grassed areas which softened the hard lines of the
buildings and roads and made the air purer to breathe. In fact, the
presence of so much greenery has caused the temperature to drop by 2 degrees C
in an island where the average temperatures are 32 degrees C and often higher.
Little India and China Town have largely escaped the demolition gangs and we
were delighted by the different styles of architecture, pretty colours and
ornamental trimmings on many of the buildings. Little India was
celebrating Deepavali, an Indian festival to mark the end of Ramadan, and lights
and decorations were festooned all across the streets. The Singapore River
which runs through the centre of the city has been largely sanitised
from the
days when it was the main thoroughfare. A pleasant riverside stroll leads
you along modern paving, around interesting sculptures and over ornamental
bridges back to the waterside restaurants at Boat Quay. Here we were
tempted by the Black Penny, a traditional Victorian pub which was doing a great
trade in spite of all the local ethnic competition and enjoyed BLT sandwiches and
draught beef.
But the one attraction that dominates all others in Singapore is, of course, Raffles Hotel. Imagine Dick's embarrassment when the splendidly dressed Indian doorman refused him access to the restaurants because he was improperly dressed! Pam could have dined if she'd wished but elected to accompany Dick to their Courtyard Restaurant where the dress code was more relaxed. On the way through we took a look at the famous Long Bar, the only place in Singapore where you can throw peanut shells on the ground without landing yourself in prison! Our lunch was superb and well worth the expense just to soak up the genteel atmosphere.
There is much to tell about this fascinating island but time prevents. Before we move on though we must just mention a very pleasant day at the zoo which is set in pleasant parklands where the animals have plenty of space to roam. Here we saw orang-utans again but we both agreed it was nothing like as exciting as seeing these wonderful animals in their native habitat. And an even more interesting evening at the night safari zoo enabled us to see many animals that sleep during the day. This zoo is quite separate from its daytime counterpart, and its many lit paths allow the visitor to wander under the stars and see all its many nocturnal residents.
And finally the botanical gardens which house the biggest orchid collection in the world. If only we had space to show all the many photos of these fascinating plants here! We enjoyed another excellent lunch in the gardens and met the restaurant's owner. He summed up Singapore rather well, we thought, when he said many of its citizens long for something out of the ordinary to happen. It's just all too perfect!
